A close up of the measurement. Note that I've used the Dremel tool to cut a marking line on the lower tube where the torsion bar clamp bolt is. This mark is used to align the adjuster, so it's got to exdend on both sides of the cut, and it must be aligned with the center of the torsion bar clamping bolt. You align the adjuster's torsion clamping bolt with this line. In fact, I cut similar line on the adjuster. This was easy and accurate. Here's the principle: with the adjuster set at it's no-adjustment setting, the adjuster's torsion bar clamp must be in the same place as the original torsion bar clamp.
For raising the car, the no-adjust setting on my adjusters was down or adjusting screw out.
For lowering, the car, the no-adjust setting would be opposite, or the adjuster up, with the adjusting screw fully in.