VW Beetle Repair
and Photos

Body/Paint

You'll have to go over all the wiring, and remove anything with frayed insulation. Start with the fuse block. Important: only replace one wire at a time. Otherwise you'll never remember where they all came from.

New ignitions switches aren't all that much money. You can mail order most any part from the places listed at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_links.html

There is a simple wiring diagram in "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive". The complete diagrams are in the shop manuals.

You'll want to buy a few different colored spools of wire, and a big collection of crimp-on terminals. Most crimp tools are very poor quality. I cleaned mine up with a Dremel tool, and it barely suffices as a wire stripper. There is a good crimping tool: Channel Lock no. 909. It is a large pliers-like crimper, with a wire cuttet in the tip. It is not a stripper. This thing is great, and really does a nice job on crimp terminals.

I now buy tools at Lowes more than Sears. Lowes had two good crimp tools like the Channel Lock no.909 (as well at several of the clever looking stripper/crimper combo tools that are basically trash - serious.)

You may need a new fuse block. All the current in the car runs to the front on that heavy red wire with the white stripe. That wire needs to be in good condition. From the engine compartment, the wires run through a channel on the driver's side. This channel may be blocked by factory applied poly urethane foam. If so, you'll have to carefully push something through there to you can get new wires through. With my car, one of the previous owners had made a very messy hack inside the car, behind the seat, above the rear wheel arch. This was probably unnecessary. I pushed a 3/4 plastic pipe through there, and run all my new wiring in that pipe. You have to pull out the driver side back seat trim panel below the window.

Find each frayed or corroded wire and replace it, one at a time. The most important runs are from under the back seat to the fuse block, and from the engine comparment to under the back seat.

Check the frame ground, and the engine block ground. It doesn't hurt to add extra grounds, especially in the front trunk area.

A VOM meter and a test lamp will probably help track things down. Remember, any positive wire that touches a metal part of the car will short since the frame of the car is all grounded.

My guess is that you have a bad fuse block, and a few melted wires. Probably not too hard to fix. Buy those tools, get the real shop manual, and get a big batch of crimp terminals. I buy mine mostly at Lowes (a big home improvement super store).

Drop me a note if you have any more questions.
Matching terms: 7

If you knew all that already, then read on...

If you bleed the front brakes first, when you go to bleed the back the pedal won't go down to the floor all the way. I ran into this problem when I accidentally got air in the system by letting the reservoir run down while bleeding the rear.

I opened the front bleed screw, and bled the rear again. Needless to say, this goes through a lot of brake fluid. I think it works to have the front bleed screw open just a little bit. It may also work to slacken the front brake shoe adjuster to the front wheel cylinders extend to max - just be sure the front pistons extend too far and come out. It should be fine as long as you keep the brake drums on while bleeding.

I wonder if the late model master cylinder is different. Even after going through a couple of gallons of brake fluid, my brakes are not as firm as pre-master cylinder replacement. I only replaced the master cylinder becuase it had started a small leak.

It is also possible that since I did not turn the drums, that the small ridge on the the inner edge of the drum (inner is towards the center of the car) is hanging up. It may well be that the brakes will be mushy if the brake shoes aren't adjusted correctly.

Still, if I pump my brake twice, the pedal is lower the second time. It doesn't go down after that. Something is still no right with my brakes, and I think it has to be the master cylinder.

Early cylinders had a flow restrictor on each line. Apparently, this was machined into the later model master cylinders. It is possible that you and I both have an early master cylinder, and that the parts suppliers either don't know or don't care.

I'm sorry I don't have a more concrete answer to the mystery. My brakes are fine, but not as good as the should be. Try my suggestion about releasing pressure on the front so the pedal will go all the way down when bleeding the rear.

Also, make sure you have the proper clearance on the push rod. It should have a tiny amount of play (about 1/8 inch of pedal travel, which is about 1 mm (less than 1/16 inch) of play in the master cylinder push rod. If the push rod cannot fully return, the brake cylinder pressure return won't work, and the air will never be fully pushed out.

Matching terms: 7

I'm guessing that you have the electric choke (The E in DFEV is for Electric.) Adjust the choke with the engine off, and cold.

There are 3 small screws that hold the choke adjustment. It is a round thing, facing the fan shroud. It's kind of hard to get to. I usually use a combination of small sockets and distributor wrenches. Mark the housing the carb body with a Sharpie before you start adjusting, so you know where it used to be. Just loosen the three screws. I think you turn the electric choke housing the opposite direction that you want the choke plate to move. You'll have to open the the throttle for the choke plate to move freely.

When the engine is warm, the choke should be fully open. By the way, all those carb adjustments need to be done on a warm engine with the choke fully open.

The choke has an electric heating element in it, therefore you need to have a wire from the + of the coil to the connector on the choke.

Initial setup of a DFEV is tricky. You must do the jet and idle speed adjustments with the engine warmed up and the choke fully open.

Follow these basics: Back off the idle speed screw (on the linkage) until the throttle closes. Then turn the screw until it just touches. From there turn the screw exactly ONE turn. Start the engine, and allow it to warm up. Make sure the choke is all the way open. Now set the idle mixture for max rpm (presuming that the distributor and timing are exactly right). After all this, go back and use the idle speed screw (on the linkage) to set the idle speed to 900 or so. This is the correct way to set the mixture and usually cures most problems.

People tell me that the 009 is a good distributor. Before anything drastic, make sure your car is prefectly tuned, and that the carb is perfectly set. I'd guess that your idle mixture is off, and maybe you have a vacuum leak.

As of April 2001, my thinking is that flat spots in the accelleration are due to a cold intake manifold, and perhaps too much ignition advance. The optimum temperature for the intake manifold it probably well over 100 degrees F. I have both my heat riser and the stock air cleaner with warm air inlet from down by the pushrod tubes. The warm air connection to the air clean required building an adaptor for the stock air cleaner (which I've since found mail order). Sadly, this whole setup may not fit under the engine cover of a stock Bug. All this extra manifold heat makes a huge difference in cold wet weather. Before installing the heat my Bug wouldn't idle in 40 degee F rainy weather. Now it occasionally has some problems, but it warms up quicker, and nearly always has a nice, smooth idle and accelleration regardless of weather. I'm actually looking for more intake manifold heat.

Incidently, I removed my engine thermostat and cooling flaps. That was a big mistake.

If you have too much initial ignition advance, then you'll probably set the idle speed screw too low. This makes the transition from idle to just off idle not work correctly.

I had my Weber setup wrong, in large part due to too much initial ignition advance. Right now I'm running about 5 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) with a 205 single vacuum advance distributor.

Here is a little story: I had a Weber DFAV on my old Datsun 510. It always ran perfect! The 510 engine is an inline water cooled 1600 cc, overhead cam. The BIG difference is that the 510's intake manifold is heated with engine cooling water, and the manifold is only about 4 inches long. Between the engine coolant and being bolted directly to the cylinder head, the 510 manifold is probably 140 degrees F. I know it was too hot to touch. My 510 had something like a 170 degree thermostat, so the intake manifold was being heated by water at near 200 degrees F. The 510 had amazing power, and no flat spots. I also have a Weber DGAV on my BMW 2002. Runs like a charm. The intake is also heated, and is short and bolted directly to the head. Neither of these cars had heated intake air.

If you have your carb apart, check the float level. This was not a problem with my carb, but it's worth checking. The fuel level in the float bowl effects the fuel level on the emulsion tube. The emulsion tube works with the air bypass jet and seems to effect rate of fuel vaporization. This means that float level is pretty critical.

Jetting is difficult. I've read one of the weber manuals, "All About VW Performance Engines" from Hot VWs magazine. It's a complex process, and perhaps not necessary. Info about the books (and mail order places) is online at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_links.html

The boots at the ends of the center manifold section often leak. Best to replace them with new urethane parts. Vacuum leaks cause bad running problems.

Keep your 009. If you wanted to go back to the 205, you want the venturi vacuum on the middle of the side of the carb. This vacuum is low at idle and goes up as engine speed increases. You can verify this with an inexpensive vacuum gauge.

On the other hand, manifold vacuum is high at idle and goes down at speed increases.

Matching terms: 6

I have literally pulled the whole dash apart trying to find a bad ground or broken wire to no avail. The really strange thing is that this car has air conditioning installed--that doesn't appear as a factory installed option, more like an after thought.

Can you maybe steer me in the right direction. I have come to the conclusion that all three inoperative guages in the guage cluster must be related. The diodes on the back of the cluster all look fine, as well, the "plastic" in-laid wiring harness [kind of a ribbon cable] on the back of the speedo/guage cluster looks fine under a magnifyer.

Do you have any advice on this electrical problem?

Chris L.

My answer:

You may need to get a shop manual to know what kind of voltages/resistance to expect on the connections to those gauges and LEDs.

I'd get a good used instrument cluster. If it works, great. If it doesn't then I would try creating a substitue ground, and then after that running a new wire for each effected circuit.

I did recently discover that the dash lights on the '91 Cabriolet (and probably most other VWs) are controlled by a relay. If the relay fails, no lights.

Chris' reply and solution:

It was nice of you to reply. I thought I'd give you the low-down on what was actually the problem for questions that may arrise in the future for VW owners w/ this kind of problem.

Problem: No tach indication/no fuel indication/no eng temp indication at the instrument cluster First, I traced every wire, every ground, every terminal lug end, source to guage

Found: Minor corrosion, several questionable wires where rubbing/chaffing had occurred

Corrective action: Replaced all questionable lugs, wires and terminal ends; verified grounds were clean/clear Second, verified all fuses were clean at the lug ends and that the fuses were physically indeed good Third, at my wits end, pulled the fuse box down and started "oming" wires end to end [using and ohmmeter to verify that the wires conduct] Fourth, frustrated, again, pulled the fuse box down, pulled the relays out to check them.

MMMMMMMM!

Found: Relays by the previous owner had been removed/replaced incorrectly; no. "3" was in no. "5's" position, "4" was in "3."

Corrective action: cleaned up the lugs on the relays and placed them in the correct position.

Solution: Everything works! After Action: Even though some bad wires were found and some corrosion was corrected, a whole lot of stress was going on needlessly. For anyone in the future w/ this kind of problem I'd vote common sense.

(1) Check the fuses

(2) Check the relays w/ (against) known good ones

(3) Verify that everything is "where it was supposed to be in the first place," against a stock wiring diagram. If I'd of followed those simple steps above I'd of solved my problem right away and fiddled w/questionable wires later, (under no stress), knowing what my eng. temp was, and how much fuel I had on hand.

Thanks for the help/response,

Happy Motoring!
Matching terms: 6

I was thinking about installing a cigarette lighter, that
way i could buy one of those mini heater defroster things. Would that help? Or not even help at all? I would really appreciate your help....

Thanks Chris

If the heat exchangers are in good condition, and all the tubing that carries air is working, then you'll have "some" defrosting. After that you add fans. There are kits.

I have seen no complete heating system diagram for the Bug, and I've never had time to make one. Dang.

The air starts from the fan shroud, blows through the heat exchangers. There are flaps that open the heat exchangers. The "Heat" control inside the Bug controls those flaps. If the control is frobbed, you could just wire the flaps in the "heat" position.

After that a fat plastic pipe carries the air to the rear end of the heater channels under the rear seat. At the front of the heater channel there is a flex pipe in the A post of the door which comes out up in the luggage compartment. That flex hose attaches to the defroster vents.

All the hoses have to be in place and not leaking. It can help to block off the heat vents next to your feet so all the air goes to the defroster.

Parts are available. Check out the mail order places especially Foreign Aide:

http://laudeman.com/bug_orders.html

I hope this helps.

Matching terms: 5

What do you think?

Bill

-- Bill, I'm not an expert in hydraulic lifters. I seem to recollect that when I did the head on my '64 Mustang, the lifters took an hour or two of running to pump up. However, I think I forgot to bleed the lifters before installing, which meant that I ended up tightening and loosing the lifters several times. Once, I did it with the engine running, and that was a huge mess. It may make more sense to back the adjusters off to about .006 clearance, and let the engine idle a bit in the hopes that the lifters will pump up. Let the engine cool and then adjust as normal.

The Bus shop manual says that VW lifters should be bled (filled with oil) prior to installing in the engine. They recommend 2 turns after the adjusting nut contacts the pushrod. Engine must be cold.

You might ask Mofoco if they remembered to bleed the lifters before assembling the engine. How much did your engine cost? What is your idle oil pressure?

10W-30 oil should be fine.

I'd love to hear how this turns out for you. I want hydraulic lifters in my next engine since a lot of the engine noise seems to be from the valve train.

Best of luck, Tom.

-- Bill's reply:

Good Morning Tom,

First, I want to thank you for returning my email. I have been a mechanic all my life but I still like opinions from others when I face problems. Most Websites I email are very impersonal when I have asked a question. You answer is very helpful.

This last weekend I spent most of it working on my bug. I found a rocker on cylinder #2 loose again so I just adjusted down once more. I asked a local VW vendor, Pozzi's, here in Sacramento about the lifters and he told me he preferred solids and hadn't had much luck keeping hydraulics quiet. I have had hydraulics in all my previous cars and have always had luck with them. So far, since I readjusted these they are quiet. I drove to work this morning on the freeway and all the valves were quiet. I agree with you that it is real nice to have a quiet valve train and I will not give up on hydraulics. I also thought I'd tell you that this engine really runs nice. I changed over to dual Kadrons this weekend from a single 2 bbl. Holley Bug spray and man what a difference. No more Holley stumble, Ha!, and no more single carbs for me. I didn't want to spend the big money for the Webers so I bought the Kadrons and found them very easy to sync and set up. I was told that these carbs are very good on the gas also.

I will keep you informed on my hydraulics and do recommend them. Oh, you did ask me about the oil pressure and I have a high output pump in this engine although Mofoco didn't tell me what type is in it. I run about 20-25 pounds at idle, after warm, and about 30 - 35lbs on the freeway with a HP-1 Fram filter. The engine is the Mofoco Streetwise engine they advertise all the time. I had them add the 1.25 Scat lifters with solid rocker shafts, Perfect seal rings, case taped for full flow oil and mounted an external filter, and am running a 050 Bosch distributor. The basic engine without the extras was $1699.00. The extra's cost me another $300.00. Runs great!

Thanks again for your answer.

Bill

--

As a postscript, in a later note, Bill again says that he is happy with his Mofoco engine, but found that support was less than he'd like after the sale. He says that he thinks he would try to buy and engine locally before going with Mofoco again.

Matching terms: 5

The Weber DFAV carb has very slight power gains, but is a pain to tune. My engine has never run as well with the Weber as with the stock carburetor. Mostly the poor running is dumb stuff: the choke on the Weber is very poor, so either my car almost dies at idle when it is cold, or the choke doesn't open soon enough. Even when the car is hot the idle varies. For no reason the car will idle so slow it almost dies. I'm pretty sure that the secondary throttle plate sticks open a tiny bit unless I punch the gas pedal.

Real horsepower you can use means HP at 4000 rpm and lower. The only true way to increase that is to have a larger engine. People tell me that 1776 is reliable. When you start getting to 1900 and 2000 cc sizes, the engine case (what is called the engine block in water cooled cars) has to be machined, and while these engines can be bullet-proof, it's a lot more $$.

Check out the book:

"All About VW Performance Engines" from Hot VWs magazine. This is great, and includes dynomometer tests of about 40 engine configurations. Anyone customizing an engine must buy this book. Along with all the other wonderful stuff it has details on how to tune (and set the jets) on the Weber DFEV / DFAV carb.

You could just keep your stock engine, add the CB manifold, merged header, electronic ignition (I have a CompuFire) and see how you like it. The later engines (69 and later) have the larger oil cooler, and better oiling system in the case. This is essentially Class 1500 Baja racing and those racers blast through the Baja 1000 and other offroad races all the time. Of course they don't win overall (that goes to the high $$$ trophy trucks), but they finish which is more than you can say for modern vehicles in other classes!
Matching terms: 4

The rubber fuel lines must be replaced. Old VWs in general have fire problems, so all rubber fuel lines should be replaced, even if the can has been on the road all these years. There are 4 fuel hose sections on a Beetle: one below the fuel tank, one behind the driver side rear wheel (alongside the transmission), and at least one going into the fuel pump, and one from the pump to the carb. Use unleaded compatible fuel line. I've used 1/4 inch which works fine. Use modern band type hose clamps.

Be extremely careful with gasoline. The slightest spark will set it off (even static electric sparks). Disconnect the negative battery terminal so you cannot make an electrical spark. Be aware that steel tools hitting steel parts of the car can also spark. Wear gloves. Latex gloves do not hold up well when exposed to gas. Vinyl seems better. Gasoline is causes cancer. Breathing gasoline vapor is bad for you, and at very high concentrations can kill you almost instantly. Use adequate ventilation. Don't start siphons with your mouth. Buy a decent gas siphon.

It helps to drain the fuel tank. This accomplishes two things: gets out the old gas, and gives you a chance to siphon any water and rust out of the tank. I pull the fuel sender out of the top of the tank. It is difficult to siphon all the gas out through the filler, especially on later model Bugs.

I'm not an expert in re-starting cars, but I'll share some of what I know.

Replace the spark plugs. While you have them out, squirt a couple of squirts of oil into the cylinders. Replace the points and condensor, or replace with an electronic points module. I used a CompuFire in my Bug, and I have a Pertronix (that I still haven't put in my BMW).

Change the oil. Does it have water or rust in it? (hopfully not). There is a lot to do before starting the engine, and one of those tasks is to turn the engine over by hand to get oil pumped through the engine.

Check the air cleaner and carb for dirt, and debris. There is a chance that when you start the car, the carb may flood.

Inspect all the wiring. Mice love to chew the insulation off wires. There is quite a bit of wiring under the rear seat, and sadly also quite a bit of seat padding that mice just love for nests.

Replace the battery.

At the very least you'll have to bleed the brakes until the fluid doesn't come out rusty. This could easily take a quart of brake fluid. It is likely that you'll have to replace the master cylinder and wheel cylinders.

Install a temperature gauge, and oil pressure gauge. VDO is fine quality, and the prices are good. See my info about the temperature sender.
Matching terms: 4

Check out my book list at http://laudeman.com/bug_links.html. I own all these books.

Every Bug owner needs "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" (also known as the Idiots Guide book). It was the first book I bought.

"Baja Bugs and Buggies" is great. "How to Build a Dune Buggy" is actually about building a sand rail. It's has large number of photos of every step.

Unless you spend the big $$, you'll have a more or less stock 1600 cc engine, and only 3 to 5 inches of lift. With good tires and a few beefed up suspension components this is more than sufficient to head offroad. Remember, there are almost stock Bugs that do the Baja 1000 race every year. One of the classes is allowed to change the tires and that's about all. That class (Class 1/2 as I recollect) also has to use single port heads!

By the way, when you buy a fiberglass Baja kit, get the 7 piece kit, and order the "extra thick" kit. There are many ripoff kits. As far as I know, the only good kit comes from Mark V Fiberglass products. They have a web site, and I'll try to dig up the URL soon.

Matching terms: 4

I have to constantly put oil in this thing. What to do?

Most likely causes:

- Loose oil cooler, or bad oil cooler gaskets. This can put oil mostly over the left half of the engine.

- Engine case halves are loose. This often covers the entire top of the engine with oil.

- The engine is old and tired, and your crankase breather is loose and is spewing oily air all over.

Sadly, fixing this stuff requires removing the engine. The good news is that if everything else is fine, you won't need a new/rebuilt engine yet. Get a couple of opinions from good mechanics, especially people who have experience with aircooled VWs.

You can try to wipe all the oil off, then drive and see where it shows up.

Matching terms: 3

"This morning, before starting her up, I thought I'd just quick check the valves, cuz I didn't on the last tune up. Well, they were just fine, so I put new covers on, and put all back in order, and ......she wouldn't start. There were a few times that she started, and just putted out. Luckily, my neighbor stopped by and we proceded to check the spark from the plugs, coil, and wires. All was in order. We even took out a plug (new as of two months ago) and it was fine. However, the spark was not making it to the distributor, which was also changed two months ago. There seems to be a bit of play on the post like thing that the rotor sits on, at least 1/4 in. and I don't recall if that's good, or normal. Also, the fuse was burnt, adn that means that something burnt it. So, that left the new dist. cap, and the fuel pump. I wanted to take the pump apart, but what was in my "idiots guide" [ The Muir book: How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive] was not what I was looking at, and therefore, I couldn't."

"I had a super old distributor in the car, probably the original, and it's cap was loose, and so its timing was going out at every little bump that was hit, so I replaced it with a newer distributor, one of those advanced vaccuum ones, and it was the end of the problem."

Thanks Jenny!
Matching terms: 3

Are they generally reliable?

Do they make a good buy? Do they age well?

What kinds of mechanical problems are they likely to have? Are there any questions that I should make sure to ask the seller?

Thanks for your time!

because Karmen makes these cars and doesn't get the new styles until they have been out for a few years. My 1989 Golf is the later body style, but has very similar EFI to the 1991 Cabrio.

Most problems are small, but I'm going to have to completely disassemble the dashboard. That will be time consuming. I

think a new wiper/washer switch is about $50. I don't know what other parts will be required, but I'm not expecting too

much. I may have to get a used heater control unit from the junkyard. This is the thing that controls the vacuum that opens and closes the various vents.

- It has some typical small VW electrical problems. The instrument lights keep going out probably due to a short under the dashboard, and the windshield washer switch isn't

working.

- The vacuum controlled heater/ac vents don't all work.

- There is a water leak under the dashboard.

- We replaced the door vapor barriers because they were leaking (there are photos of this procedure on my web site).

- These cars have more engine vibration than the later Golf/Jetta/Cabrio. My 1989 is the later type is has less vibration.

- If the roof is in good shape, it works well. It can have air leak (a kind of roaring noise over 50 mph which comes from the joint between the roof and the top of the windshild). This can be cured to a great extent by making the roof latches tighter.

- The front door windows will leak if left open even a tiny bit.

- The passenger window catches at the rear about 2 inches from being closed. It helps to gently push out on the top rear corner of the window while closing it.

- The upper strut bearings often need replacement. Our car has some play here, which makes the front end clunk. The parts were inexpensive, and although I haven't replaced them yet, it looks like a pretty easy job. Some play at the top of the strut is normal

- Perhaps due to the engine mount system, the 1991 Cabrio has more engine vibration transmitted to the passenger compartment than my 1989 Golf. I know that the front mount on the Cabrio is broken, and that may be a factor.

- Older VWs often need a radiator, maybe around 100K miles.

- These cars have quite a bit of belt noise, but everything works fine.

- Check the transmission in all gears. My Golf is great still at over 160K miles, however the Cabrio is on it's second transmission.

For a long checklist that I wrote about the BMW 2002 and which applies to most cars see:

http://laudeman.com/bmw_checklist.html

Matching terms: 3

I think the shop is giving you a run around. The 1641 is doesn't make any more heat than a normal 1600 cc engine. It is possible that they put a really cheap chrome tin on, and the air flow is bad. Did they use a chrome dog house fan shroud? By 1972, VW put a larger oil cooler on the Bug, and the fan shroud is larger where it covers the oil cooler, so people call it a "dog house" fan shroud.

You can read up on VW mechanical issues in John Muir's great book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive". I review this book in detail at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

Matching terms: 3

If you use a test lamp (available at tool, hardware, and auto supply stores) you'll find out where there is juice, and where there isn't. After that look for bad connections and broken wires.

When actually fixing wires, it is best to disconnect the NEG terminal of the battery. With the NEG off, the car's electrical system is safe (even when the positive terminal is still connected). This is true because the entire metal frame of the car is all negative. The only positive parts are wires connected somehow to the positive battery terminal. If you only disconnect the positive battery terminal, you can short circuit between the positive terminal and any metal part of the car.

Matching terms: 3

It might be easiest to replace the defroster flex tubes with the body off. I've done that with the body on, and it's a tight squeeze. I used that aluminium/mylar flex tube like people use between the fan shroud and heat exchangers. I secured mine with a big wire tie (zip tie).

Don't forget to label all the wires as you pull them off.

If you want to drop me a note when you are done, I'd love to hear how things work out.
Matching terms: 3

What is the best way to go. To rebuild the seat or to replace? Who would you recommend to contact?

I think the seat mounts are the same for many years of Golfs. Compare the junkyard seats to your seats (you can pull out the passenger seat and still drive to the junkyard). The seats might have the same mounts up through the mid-1990s.

Matching terms: 3

As far as I know the Super is like all the other later Beetles. I say this all the time, but it's good advice: Get John Muir's book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive". My full review is at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

Shop manuals can be very handy. You can find my reviews of them at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_links.html

Matching terms: 3

To get the rear end of a Bug really jacked up, you have to replace the spring plates with special trailing arms.

The problem is worse on swing axle rear ends (any Bug made before about 1969). The so-called IRS (independent rear suspension) has axles and CV (constant velocity) joints so it has less camber problems than the swing axles. Still, just from eyeballing my rear end, I can't get more than about 12 degrees angle on the axles.

If it is any comfort, class 1/2 Bugs run the Baja 1000 all the time. Just about the only mods they are allowed is larger tires.
Matching terms: 3

It takes a fair bit of current to close the solenoid. If you touch the solenoid wire to the battery positive, does the starter turn? Do this carefully. Car out of gear, brake on, no fuel fumes, etc.

The ignition switch contacts go bad and don't send enough current to the solenoid. A DC circuit can have 12V, but a bad contact will prevent those 12V from flowing enough to close the solenoid or light a bulb. Putting in a Ford solenoid like I did helps, but it just delays replacing the ignition switch. I still have to push the key in while turning the ignition switch to get the starter to turn.

I had a case where a reverse switch tested OK with a voltmeter, but wouldn't pass enough current to light a bulb.

The click in the base of the carb is the idle solenoid, and that's normal.
Matching terms: 2

THANK YOU!

Cathy

Btlmex.com has a kit, http://www.btlmex.com/product.asp?0=200&1=209&3=8

and there is also Vintage Air at http://www.vintageair.com/index.asp

Aside from the cost (around $1000 for parts) you need to find a really good shop to do the installation. Btlmex and Vintage Air might have recommendations in your area.

You can also call Foreign Aide to see what advice they have about a/c.

Foreign Aide (800-658-5712) All kinds of Bug parts and advice. Marvin from Albuquerque writes "...Foreign Aide has been tremendously helpful. Quite often, they talk me out of stuff or give me a cheaper alternative." Email them at: foreignaide@qwest.net

If you install the a/c, please drop me a note and tell me how it goes.
Matching terms: 2

http://www.volkspares.co.za/

"I have no favourite magazine - not all that many magazines on beetles appear in the shops here."
Matching terms: 2

Thank you

If you have spark at the plugs, then there are only two spark related issues: plug wires in the wrong order and the timing being off a mile.

My FAQ14 might help:

http://laudeman.com/bug_faq/msearch.pl?s=0&o=a&findme=faq14

Line up #1, and then make sure the firing order matches how you have the wires on the dist. cap.

If you had fuel before the tune up, you probably still have it. Fuel pumps do tend to suddenly fail, but it is too much coincidence that the pump would fail right when you tune up. The fuel test is to put (very carefully) about one tablespoon of gas down the carb throat. Stand back, and crank the engine. If it runs for a few seconds then dies, you have a fuel problem.

Remember to never put your head anywhere near the carb when cranking the car. A backfire can happen anytime, but is very likely when things are messed up. A backfire is a small explosion.

Do you have the "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" book? It's great, and covers the causes of Bugs that don't run (amoung other things). My review is at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

Matching terms: 2

Removing the tank is not too hard, but can be time consuming. It is best done when the tank is nealy empty. I had trouble trying to get the gas out of the filler, so I removed the fuel gauge sender and siphoned the gas out that way. Getting the filler hose off is a struggle because that hose is so stiff.

There are probably two or three small hoses to remove.

Four bolts hold the tank in. You might be able to remove the fuel line by lifting the tank a few inches, or you might have to remove one of the front wheels (passenger side) to remove the fuel line rubber hose from the bottom of the tank. Replace that rubber hose. I use 1/4 unleaded fuel hose.

Be careful with gasoline. Be very, very careful.

My most common advice is to get the book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" book? It covers many major repairs, and has many, many sage hints. My review is at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

Matching terms: 2

Thanks

I bought aftermarket seat rails as a kit. It was about for both sides. I think I got the seat rails from Latest Rage. Usually people get one forward and backward adjustable seat rail for the driver side, and a non-adjustable folding seat rail for the passenger side.

I cut the rear legs and the center mount off of some later (around 1985-1990) Golf/Jetta seats that I picked up from the junkyard (between and depending on the quality of the seat). Then I use some U bolts (5/16 diameter, about 2 inch curve) to bolt the seat to the seat rail.

I've been very happy with this. It does raise the seats a couple of inches, so there is a little less clearance between your legs and the steering wheel. I'm 5' 8" tall and it isn't a problem. You may have to notch the front right corner of the Golf/Jetta seat so that you can shift into reverse when the seat is forward. The upholstery is easy to work with on the later model seats. I just removed the upholstery covering (buy cutting the bull rings), and cut 2 to 4 inches off the front right seat pad.

By the way, instead of "bull rings" to secure the upholstery, I use heavy gauge plastic wire ties, and cut off the excess (also called zip ties).

All Golf/Jetta seats from around 1990 recline, and can fold up. Even if they don't have the folding handle, it is pretty easy to install a cable through the latches. I used small (1/16 inch) cable, and crimp on aluminium stops. Worked great.
Matching terms: 2

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

Matching terms: 2

It turns out that a US 1972 is almost certainly 1600 cc.

The Super Beetle has a deeply curved windshield, and Macpherson struts in the front end (instead of shock absorbers and torsion bars/ball joints). The normal Bug windshield is only slightly curved, and is only about 3 or 4 inches from the steering wheel.
Matching terms: 2

Fitting a type IV engine is quite a bit more work. I think the transmission connection is similar (or identical) but exhaust and engine cooling are quite different. Besides, the type IV engine is special, and special means expensive.

You can go to 1641 cc by only changing piston and cylinders. 1776 cc needs minor engine mods, but I think this is pretty easy. Larger displacements get more complex, and make a LOT of heat. Heat kills VW engines, so if you want reliable, kee the engine size smaller.
Matching terms: 2

If you put in the stock torsion bar packs, then it should be OK. I've heard of people removing one of the segments of one or both front torsion bars. I'm not sure how well that works, and it may require an adjustable front torsion bar tube to maintain ride height.

Are your tires over inflated? Recommended front Bug tire pressure is much lower than normal cars.

Try to join the local VW club, and ask some other owners their experience, or drive their cars to compare.

Matching terms: 2

Slide the seat all the way forward. Push down on that sheetmetal stop/catch. There may also be a spring to remove. Slide the seat a little further forward and lift up. It should come off the rails, and you can lift it out of the car.

If your seats are like my 1973 regular Beetle, it's not too hard. The seat has 3 mounting points. The two rear feet ride in rails and just slide back and forth.

The front mount is the latch, and has a sliding part. It also has a catch so you can't accidently push the seat back too far. The seat comes out be sliding it backward, but you have to push the catch down with a long flat bladed screwdriver while moving the seat back. This is tricky for one person.

It also helps to remove the catch. It is held in place with a single phillips head screw. Keep the catch and the screw.

If your seats are more like Rabbits and Golfs, there is still the three point mount, but the front stop is a little bolt, not a metal catch.

Matching terms: 2

What happens is that the engine quits running after a period of time and won't start until it sits for about and hour.

A warning before you start: gasoline explodes and it causes cancer. Keep sparks away from gasoline, and wear gloves. Remember, that even a tool hitting a metal part of the car can make a spark, clean up any fuel spills, etc.

Having never personally seen a fuel injection (FI) system on a Bug, I got this info from the shop manual:

There is a double relay under that cover behind the right rear luggage compartment. This is all behind the rear seat backrest.

The fuel pump is near the right front wheel. It is a metallic cylinder near the fuel filter.

I think you need the shop manual. Everything I've read says the FI is reliable, and not too hard to work on. However, the shop manual is vital for testing and diagnosis.

The shop manual is nice. You can find my review online at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_0837600960.html

Matching terms: 2

The bulbs are not that common. I generally order them when I'm ordering other Bug parts. It is worth a couple of local phone calls you see if you can find them at part suppliers in your area.

Otherwise try one of the suppliers on my Parts page:

http://laudeman.com/bug_orders.html
Matching terms: 2

On the engine side it is the rear oil seal.

Just phone Rocky Mountain Motorworks (or one of the other suppliers). If the sales person can't help, most of them have tech people you can talk to.

Even in this electronic age I phone in all my orders.

Remember to make a list of parts and questions before you get on the phone. While on the phone with the salesperson, write down prices, part numbers, shipping charges, the phone number you called, date you called, saleperson's name, backorder status, etc. That little list helps keep track of orders if you have to call later. It's nice while on the phone to make notes.

Matching terms: 2

You need John Muir's book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive". It has step by step instructions for most common VW repairs. He doesn't cover converting to an alternator, but he does talk about the charging system.

See my review at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

Get the book, and I think you'll be fine.

Does that alternator come with instructions?

Also, see my FAQ about alternator hookup. Not much there, but if the wire match, it's a pretty easy connection.

http://laudeman.com/bug_faq/msearch.pl?s2=0&o=a&findme=alternator

Alternators use alternating current which can be generated more efficiently. They change the AC to DC with large diodes. Since they are more efficient, they provide power better at idle. Since they are AC, they don't have brushes so they last longer.

Matching terms: 2

I ran into this. You can try opening a front bleed screw and a rear. Of course fluid will come out faster, and you have to have two containers for fluid coming out.

Matching terms: 2

I think you need John Muir's book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive". My full review is

at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

Shop manuals can be very handy. You can find my reviews of them at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_links.html

Matching terms: 2

http://laudeman.com/bug_faq/msearch.pl?s=0&o=a&findme=faq60

If you have a Super Beetle (deeply curved windshield) then things are different. You may have to replace most of the front end parts. Once fixed, this should be fine for a long time. I'm not an expert on the Super, but from reading the order of parts replacement is: rebalance tires, check tire pressure, front end alignment, all the rubber bushings, tie rod ends, struts, brake drums. That should fix things. People often forget to replace brake drums because they rarely cause shaking on other cars.

Matching terms: 2

If that helps the solution is to replace the ignition switch. It's a small part, but requires taking the steering column apart (at least it requires taking the steering column apart on the 1973 with a locking ignition switch).

Matching terms: 2

If you are interested in the shop manual, see my review online at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_0837600960.html

Matching terms: 2

With all that said, headlights on the NB might be hard to replace.

I have heard from a few owners that changing the fog lights is expensive, and presumably time consuming (and perhaps difficult).

Now that you know what little I do, I'd suggest to keep searching for a NB speciality web site.

Incidently, Rocky Mountain Motorworks carries new VW parts. They might have info or instructions for headlight replacement.

http://motorworks.com/

Matching terms: 2

Flasher connection:

KBL connects to a blue wire with a green stripe

+49 connects to a black wire

49a connects to a dual wire black-white-green.

Perhaps it is the wrong flasher. Try a NAPA, Federated or AutoZone store. Of course, you can always get the correct part from the local VW dealer.

I've never had a real wire cover (if you mean the nice piece of cardboard that keeps your groceries out of the back of the dashboard.) I think it just lays in there.
Matching terms: 2

What problems do you have with the 009 around town?

I had hesitation problems when the 009 was in my Bug, but I'm pretty sure that was due (at least in part) to carb and intake manifold problems.

From an automotive engineering point of view, the advantage of vacuum advance is better fuel economy. There are non-VW Bug cars that had mechanical advance distributors, and they all ran fine.

Someday, I'll do a more careful test.
Matching terms: 2

A chop job is a HUGE complex task. First there is the body work which is a complex work of art, then there is all the glass and trim. Just installing a headliner is a big job.

Just as a starter, try to get make a smooth, warp free weld on some sheetmetal. Even with a nice MIG this is a challenge.

Whatever you do, have fun!
Matching terms: 2

It sounds like a bad ignition switch.

I'm guessing that the starter turned over when you ran 12V from the battery to the coil because you used the wrong wire. The ignition switch in teh On position just runs 12V from the battery (actually the Pos coming off the gen/alt to the battery). It also puts 12V on a few circuits in the fuse block.

Track down the obvious problems first, and when they are fixes the odd problems may go away, and will certainly be easier to fix.

#1 is do you have 12 V at the coil with the ignition switch on.

Remember, the distributor is on the Neg side of the coil (I guess that's obvious, but it's worth mentioning).

The Muir book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" has starting diagnostic procedures, and explains some of the electric system. My online review is at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html
Matching terms: 2

You probably have several problems. I'm guessing the low pressure is from oil blowing around your worn main crank bearings. The oil on the outside of the engine is probably coming from the oil cooler. When I pulled out my engine, I found a couple of loose case bolts, so that the split between the two case halves was also leaking. Your oil pump might also be worn. It is also possible that your oil pressure relief valves are sticking open. Leaking oil can be fixed. Low pressure is an almost sure sign that it is time to rebuild.

The exception would be if you had a faulty oil pressure sender. You could check that first since it is inexpensive. You'll want to get a new sender for your rebuilt engine anyway, so it isn't a waste to replace it now.

Matching terms: 2

Before removing the nut, mark it with some paint on the nut and the spindle so you can tighten it back to the same place. Remove the cotter pin.

There are two common ways: buy a 36mm hub socket (which will be 1/2 inch drive). Front wheel drive spindle sockets are usually available at places like AutoZone and Sears. Get a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and attach a cheater (piece of pipe). Get someone to sit in the car with the brakes on, and you basically put all your weight (carefully) on the cheater. You'll probably have to stand on the cheater, and bounce. Needless to say, you need a really strong breaker bar.

The second method is a little simpler. there's a 36mm wrench-like tool with flat surfaces for hammering where the handle would normally be. It's only about 6 inches long and you pound on it with a hammer. Works great. It's only a few dollars from any VW parts supplier.

Of course, there is one more way: get a big, powerful air impact wrench, set it at max and back the nuts off. I have a 40 dollar air wrench rated at 275 foot pounds at 90 psi. I had to set the compressor to at least 90 psi and it still took almost a minute of the wrench hammering away before the nuts started to back off. That uses a TON of air so a small compressor has trouble keeping up.

Get the Muir book. Fantastic. It describes the breaker bar method, and even has an amusing illustration.

"How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" My review: http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

BTW, while you have the rear drums off, it might be wise to just replace the rear wheel cylinders. I think new cylinders are only about each, and you don't want to have to go back in there due to a leaking wheel cylinder.

Drop me a note if your brakes feel soft after bleeding. I have some ideas.
Matching terms: 2

You can test this because you may be able to keep the car running by constantly tapping the gas pedal.

Besides, you've already replaced the fuel pump, so that (mostly) only leaves the carb.

Check the boots at either end of the center section of the intake manifold. A Big vacuum leak in one or both of those boots will act like a carb problem.

Matching terms: 1

motor?

P.S. I know your behind answering problems,but this is my

only transportation I have,and I cant afford to put it in the shop.

smokey.

It never hurts to get a second opinion about something like this.

Even an engine with really bad compression rings might run ok. If some part were actually cracked open, it would probably run rough.

You could get a decent quality compression checker and check the compression, or have a good shop check it. I'm guessing that the compression on one or more cylinders is very low.

If you drain the oil, and remove the oil screen, is there bits of metal or junk in the screen? That is a sign that bearing shells or piston rings are coming apart, and that's bad.

Or you could just get a used or rebuilt engine. Sadly, you are looking at $1000 of repairs. Doing a used engine yourself would run at least $200 just for a fair quality used engine. You always need a few assorted parts (gaskets mostly). Good rebuilt engine are no less than $700, and if you get it from the right place you can get a good one for that price (shipping is extra).
Matching terms: 1

VW has just recently issued a recall on the window regulators. At the time mine broke I was not happy with the treatment at my dealer so I called another dealer to see what they would charge and if they had the part in stock. They did have the part and said that there would be no charge because they had been instructed by their management to fix gratis, since there were so many coming in. I was certainly glad that I had called around because my dealer agreed to meet that and fixed it for free. So, if anyone asks about the window regulator in the New Beetle...

Happy Holidays!

Pam
Matching terms: 1

Marvin from Albuquerque very kindly sent several emails and photos of his new Weber IDF setup. So far he loves it.

Marvin says, "My son and I took a break for a while on our project because I had work during week ends that was consuming our Baja Bug time. But over the Christmas break, we installed a Weber 40 IDF and the 009 distributor with electronic ignition (good bye points). We still have a stock 1600 engine, but the carb/distributor combo made for a much smoother running engine. We were impressed."

As for cold weather performance, Marvin says, "In temperatures in the low twenties, it takes about 4 attempts about 5 seconds each of starting the engine, or less than 30 seconds to get it started. I let it run and keep the gas on for another 30 seconds (I guess I am not very patient) and then go on my way. It takes about 2 miles before it is running nice and smooth at the low end of the power band."

The DFEV (Weber progressive) has a choke and starts right away, and idles fine. However, unless you have extra manifold heating, the car will often run poorly after the choke opens - usually about 5 minutes. So the two carburetors are kind of opposite for cold weather. The IDF is harder to start, but seems run better once the engine warms up.

I asked about the throttle linkage. Marvin opted for the higher quality linkage and likes it.

Here are some photos:

Marvin's Baja Site: http://www.gibsons-sw.com/bajabug.htm

Matching terms: 1

Thanks Dave!

If you can get air through the passage ways, then gas will flow there too.

What about the idle solenoid? This is that electronic cylinder screwed into the left hand side of the carb. This must have 12 V on it to open and allow fuel into the idle jet. When the ignition is off, this valve closes. This keep the car from having "run on" or "dieseling".

You might also have a big vacuum leak. Did you replace the rubber boots at the ends of the intake manifold center section?

Also check out John Muir's book "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive". He details carb problems, and how to adjust the Solex. My review is online at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_b_1562614800.html

Matching terms: 1

And Just Beetles Brackenfell South Africa Phone +27 021 981 4113. Just Beetle does restoration to Beetles and Build ups These guys are expensive but will have any part. They also make many parts them selves, they are always a good option.

There are many Places in Johannesburg I will try to get their names and phone numbers for you."

Incidently, when I asked about the Afrikaans name of South Africa, Winston replied: "The Afrikaans name for South Africa is Suid Afrika. To pronounce it you must pronounce the S like a Z and the ui like an A. The Afrikaans language is very similar to the Germanic group."
Matching terms: 1

An online wire diagram is handy for many electric circuit problems.

Matching terms: 1

I was reading your tips on installing a volkswagen windshield. Using a soapy sloution or glass cleaner is good to lube the gasket and area before installing.

However, silicon spray is not good. It always stays slick, if the person driving is ever in accident the windshield will come flying out and can cause alot of injury to occupants or or anyone in the area. Also if it leaks, it can never be sealed, nothing sticks to it. I am general manager for a large autoglass company and have installed for years. This just comes from experience and not wanting anyone to get hurt. Thanks for reading my email.

Randy

--

Thanks for the note, Randy! I didn't realize that silicon never sets up, but it makes sense. I've used soapy water on other rubber to metal installations. Works great.
Matching terms: 1

Hope you can help, my Mum has a 1974 12 Beetle and the release lock inside the glove compartment will not open the bonnet (also know as the hood or luggage compartment lid). The compartment (glovebox) has come away from the body of the car and it's loose. She tells me the latch still has resistance, as I suggested a cable may have broken. In her manual it states that if the latch breaks the bonnet will not stay locked. However her boot is locked. Mum is 73 and has had the car since 1975, she is just about to have it resprayed and the MOT is due, It will fail the MOT if she cannot get it open. Can you help?

Try to pull what part of the cable you can reach. Sometimes if a second person pushes down on the bonnet (hood) handle, the latch releases easier.

If the cable really has snapped, the only solution is to cut the handle on the bonnet (hood). It takes 3 cuts. The important cut is right along the release button. With some care and some gentle bending back and forth, the pieces of the handle can be removed, and with the button free, you can make the bonnet lid release.

The shop doing the respray may be familiar with the process.

Good luck with the MOT (British car inspection), and drop me a note if you have more questions.

By the way, if you don't have Muir's book, get it. Loads of useful info.

p.s. I think the manual means that if the bonnet (hood) locking mechanism breaks, the lid won't stay down. This is true, but rather rare. Usually the cable snaps where it meets the handle in the glove compartment. In this latter case, the lid is latched, and the handle has to be cut.

Matching terms: 1

I've never been able to get my gauge to work (I haven't tried too hard). Mounting my temp sender in the drain plug seemed like a good idea, but the max temp there is only about 125 degrees, so I just need to mount the temperature sender in a better location.

I'd guess normal is more like 200-220, but I'm not sure. I think most water cooled cars run with a water temp of somewhere between 180-220. Oil temp is probably higher than the water temp.

Two things:

- Does the oil pressure light come on when the car is hot and idling? If the oil pressure is good, that is a good sign.

- Are the cooling flaps opening? This is hard to tell. Look at the round accordian thing between cylinders 1 and 2 (right hand side of the engine. Check it when cold. Go for a drive. Check it when hot (don't burn yourself). It should be taller. I think it grows about 1/2 inch, and that pushes the flaps open.

Matching terms: 1

Most U.S. magazines are also hesitant to criticize advertisers. Be a wise and careful shopper.
Matching terms: 1

Just thought I'd share my experience.

Nathan

I list contact info for RMM and others at:

http://laudeman.com/bug_orders.html
Matching terms: 1

Jonathan

I am pretty sure that is it a Yakima (a friend gave it to me.) The distance between the supports is adjustable, and the rack locks. The clamps are rubber coated, so there is very little damage. It fits really well, and is very well constructed. I recommend this rack.

Long term rack use with any type of rack is going to effect the paint. As far as I can tell, Yakima and Thule will cause the least damage. I suggest just keeping an eye on things, and if the paint chips, touch it up before rust can form.

I've used clamp-on racks for years and never had anything more serious than the rare small flake of paint worn off by the rack clamp. The Yakima design is much better than the less expensive racks/clamps.

Matching terms: 1

A little un-related but am considering purchase of VW powered trike, 1600cc OEM new engines. Can see at www.novatrikes.com. They are in process of developing automatic trans to their trikes and also hydralic lifter model engine also. Should I wait for the automatic trans or forget it and go with manual? Any problems with auto etc.? Will be a while while they redesign frame but sticks (maual transmissions) are ready for delivery. Gear ratio has been changed on the stick transaxles from 4.12 to 3.88 to control front end lift.

Thanks.

Bob

Are they going to offer a VW autostick auto, or an aftermarket auto tranny? I'd love to hear more about that.

The autostick from VW is a manual tranny with an electronically activated, vacuum controlled clutch, combined with a torque converter. It works, and people tell me they like them. Service could be an issue since they are not common. However, they are reliable from what I can tell.

You give up a little power with the autostick, but that won't be factor on a trike!

Hydraulic lifters are (as far as I can tell) good. The engine will be quieter and you won't have to do the 3000 mile valve adjustment. Hyd. lifter engines need a real oil filter, but I'd recommend that anyway.

Drop me a note when you get it. I'd love to hear how things turn out.

Matching terms: 1

http://users.sisna.com/rtaylor/defrost.htm

http://users.sisna.com/rtaylor/1975.htm

Rob in SLC

p.s. Nice looking Bug!
Matching terms: 1

THE SOLE AGENTS FOR VW CARMARTPVT LTD 424,UNION PLACE, COLOMBO 2 SRI LANKA 696311-5,698382 WWW.CARMART.LTD.COM E MAIL- SALES@CARMART.LTD.COM

BRANCH: 503 KANDAWALA RD, RATHMALANA SRI LANKA

SUBASINGHE MOTOR STORES 422-426, GEORGE DE SILVA MAWATHA, COLOMBO 13 SRILANKA T.P 449604,345909 FAX 423328

INDRA TRADERS 140,D.S SENANAYAKE VIDIYA KANDY T.P (08)234301,(08)233251

MULTI MOTOR STORES 80,GALLE ROAD SOUTH DEHIWALA SRI LANKA T.P 722754
Matching terms: 1

You might call one of the VW mail order places (Kymco is my current favorite) just to see if they have a hint off hand. You can find their number, etc. at:
http://laudeman.com/bug_links.html
I have ordered from them 4 times, and gotten some advice that sounds good. Nice people. I just went out and looked at my car. The chances are slim, but I have some ideas:

If you think the cable is attached, but just inside the trunk, tear out the glove box (these are about $15 new, as I recollect, again Kymco can tell you). You would sacrifice the glove box, but that is pretty easy and cheap to fix. After that you might try:

1) Use some stiff wire and see if you can get the latch pushed back. This is a long shot, but doesn't require breaking anything. The latch is on the right (passenger) side, and moves towards the right. You'd have to put a hook in the wire, and slide it to the latch from the right (pass.) side, then rotate the wire. You're trying to hook it into a hole, and pull the hole towards the right (pass.) side. The hole is a collar that locks down the trunk lid.

2) Drill out the center of that little round thing below the front of the trunk lid. You may have to remove the bumper to get to it. This has a nut on the inside. You may have to destroy that little thing since it should come out from the inside. The latch is just above it, and I think the tire won't be too much in the way. A long (perhaps curved) pry bar should be able to push back the latch. Maybe even your fingers or hand. The down side is that the spare tire might be in the way.
Matching terms: 1

#1 is right side, front
#2 is right side, rear
#3 is left side, front
#4 is left side, rear

As John Muir says, front is towards the front of the car.
Matching terms: 1

They don't have to be hardened, but they do have to be stove bolts. These have a square shank just below the head, and the head is smooth and rounded. The square shaft keeps the bolt from turning when you tighten it.

If you local hardware supplier doesn't have a metric size, just use a 3/8 or so stove bolt.

Matching terms: 1

"I have dealt with all of these people, and they have been really good. I recommend Australian Volkswagen Magazine, because it's virtually the only one and in my humble opinion, one of the better ones!"

VW Parts & Accessories
411 Hammond Road
Dandenong 3174

Victoria, Australia
PH: (03) 9791 1822
FAX: (03) 9791 1833
http:/www.mrbug.com.au
email:sales@mrbug.com.au

The Volks Shop
1072 South Road
Edwardstown 5039
South Australia
PH: (08) 8277 4244
FAX: (08) 8277 9391

Volks Home Automative
16 Commercial Drive
Thomastown 3074
Victoria, Australia
PH: (03) 9464 0366
FAX: (03) 9464 0856

Volks Auto
VW & Audi Specialists
1 Kegworth Road
Melrose Park
South Australia 5039
PH: 8276 9999
FAX: (08) 8276 9542

Volks Works
Specialising in VW's & European cars
474 Main North Road
Blair Athol
South Australia 5084

PH: (08) 8262 3881

Volkspower
12 Florence Street
Burwood

Victoria 3125
Australia
PH: 9808 6777
FAX: 9808 6909

Australian VW Performance Centre
PH (03) 9761 4540
FAX: (03) 9761 4541
Victoria, Australia

Volksbahn Autos
20 Joyce Street
Pendle Hill 2145
Sydney, Australia
PH: (02) 9688 2933
FAX: (02) 9896 3291
Matching terms: 1

"I get my VW parts from:
Autobahn
VW Specialist - Parts and Repairs
PO Box 97-283 S.A.M.C. Manukau
Auckland, NZ
Ph 64-09-267 8871
Fax 64-09-267 0588
Mobile 025-447 990
T/Free 0800 55-VOLK (0800 55-8655)
50 Browns Rd, Manurewa, Auckland, New Zealand
Contact person: Glen Rudduck

I understand there is another VW place in Auckland somewhere who I contacted years ago but found them to be a little unhelpful, Glen at Autobahn is great to do business with... very helpful and very prompt delivery - usually overnight."
Matching terms: 1

Every part is available for the Bug, so if you have trouble, contact a supplier listed on my parts page:

http://laudeman.com/bug_orders.html

Shop for price and quality.

Matching terms: 1

I've been looking at it recently feeling like it needs a little something to finish it off: simple things like a little visor (like a small hat brim) at the top windshield edge. And a running board along the bottom of the doors, both of which will make it look a little "retro" which I want. Any ideas as to sources for items like this?